Rhône-Alpes region of France
Published in Woman's Weekly magazine 31st July 2012
Published in Woman's Weekly magazine 31st July 2012
Summer in the French Alps.
Sharing its Alpine borders with Switzerland and Italy, the Savoie-Mont Blanc area of the Rhône-Alpes region of France sounds a bit of a mouthful but this part of France has long been a favourite winter sporting destination for the discerning skier. Upmarket resorts such as Chamonix and Megève have welcomed sophisticated Parisian’s and wealthy Brits for years with the promise of fine skiing, refined gastronomic specialities set against the iconic natural feature of the Alps. Come Spring, when the temperature rises and the alpine pasture, rich with herbs and wild flowers replaces the melting snow, a different crowd of savvy traveller takes to the slopes to enjoy lower season prices as mountain resorts transform into a different kind of playground. Skis and snowboards are packed away as hikers and cyclists take advantage of the winter ski lifts that allow easy access to the summit trails where the air is fresh and the views amazing.
We started our summer tour with a two-hour drive from Geneva airport to the sparsely populated Beaufotain mountain range where the sound of cowbells echoed through the valley. Tucked away between Albertville and Mont-Blanc, this area is without doubt one of the most beautiful and peaceful corners of the whole of France. The region is renowned for its summer pasture, known as alpages, where herds of Tarentaise and Abondance cows graze happily in meadows some 2,500m above sea level. The local herdsmen, who also live up in the alpages, leave nothing to chance and use mobile milking parlours to ensure a steady stream of the rich milk is collected daily for the production of the locally manufactured Beaufort cheese. Food lovers rave about this nutty, Gruyere-style cheese, which has been called ‘The Prince of Gruyeres’ and was awarded the converted seal of Appellation d’Origine in recognition of its quality and originality.
Naturally, we had to sample this delicacy so we headed to the dairy co-operative of Beaufortain where visitors can view the complex cheese making process up close. I wanted to see the cellars where the rounds of cheese are salted and turned by hand to produce their distinctive flavour but be warned, the pungent aroma is not for the squeamish. The co-operative is situated in the pretty village of Beaufort, which is perfect for a stroll around thanks to its quant river bridges, street cafes and a C18th Baroque church. With the weather set fair we decided to treat ourselves to an alfresco lunch in the wonderful garden setting at the nearby Restaurant la Roche where we dined simply on the local cheese, charcuteries and Savoie wines. I just love these type of occasions where everything falls into place to create a special holiday moment that seems to epitomise all that I love about the French way of life – warm sunshine, fine wine, great food and good company in a gorgeous setting.
For more information. Log onto: http://www.lebeaufortain.com http://www.areches-beaufort.com/
I could have happily stayed put in that garden for the rest of the afternoon but the surrounding area is just so inviting that we had to press on and continue our tour. We hiked around the picturesque Roseland Dam and reservoir before checking into the cosy family hotel, Le Christiania in Arêches where we watched a spectacular sunset.
Hotel Christiania ** http://hotel-areches.com/Hotel_Christiania/Le_Christiania.html Tel. +33 4 79 38 10 58
By morning, the breakfast bar was full with an assortment of lycra wearing cyclists who were in the process of refuelling their bodies before the start of strenuous day in the saddle. Luckily, the general public have never had to endure the sight of yours truly wearing any figure hugging attire but I’ve always been partial to a spot of cycling, particularly if it’s downhill. At the purpose built ski resort of Les Saisies I found myself with mountain bike and guide as we waited for a chairlift to transport us to the top of the world. I felt slightly apprehensive at the thought of this, which wasn’t helped when one of our cycling colleagues went crashing to ground within minutes of starting. Luckily, no serious damage was sustained and we were soon hitting our stride along the plateau trail of woodland and meadows. It was fantastic and the views of Mont Blanc and the alpine chain were glorious.
Mountain Bike rental shop Piccard Sport
Tel: 00+33 4 79 38 90 43
http://www.piccardsports.com Prices: ½ day: 39€ (mountain bike special for downhill), 15€ (normal mountain bike) Day: 49€ (mountain bike special for downhill), 19€ (normal mountain bike) Mountain Bike instructor: 65€ per day - 35€ half day
At the time, I couldn’t have imagined a more breathtaking way to see Mont Blanc but that opinion was about to change when we embarked upon a 30-minute scenic flight onboard a compact Musketeer plane. We took off from Megève mountain airport with cameras at the ready as we soared above the low cloud and along the Chamonix valley towards the almost mythical snow-capped summits surrounding the Mont Blanc. The close-up views from the panoramic window were just stunning as we swooped and banked over glaciers and rocky outposts that only the most hardened mountain climber would have ever seen. It’s an experience I will never forget but it’s not for the faint hearted as the turbulence, although exhilarating can upset the stomach.
Flight above the Mont Blanc: Aerocime
http://www.aerocime.com
Tel: 00+33 4 50 21 03 21
Safely back on terra firma, we headed to the ski resort of Megève where we had arranged to meet relaxation therapist Marie Le Ray. With the adrenalin still pumping through our veins this seemed the perfect opportunity to discover Marie’s secret for dealing with modern day stress that involves a series of breathing and meditation techniques known as sophrology. Apparently it’s all the rage in France and Marie was soon leading our group on a sophrological walk in the surrounding countryside. I have to admit that standing in field breathing deeply, with my eyes closed to discover my inner calm didn’t quite do it for me although I am a bit of a philistine when it comes to such matters.
Marie can be booked via the Bureau des Guides
Tel: 00+33 4 50 21 55 11
http://www.guides-megeve.com
Or
http://sophrorando.com/default.aspx
For relaxation, I much prefer to swim in an outdoor pool and the ecological lake in nearby Combloux takes some beating. For a start, no chemicals are used - the water is filtered naturally using nothing but reed beds and plants that grow in the margins. The area is beautifully landscaped and just blends in so well with the surrounding countryside in a location that includes a fabulous view of Mont Blanc. I thoroughly recommend it.
http://www.combloux.com
Finally, if you ever want to celebrate a very special occasion with the meal of your life in the most perfect of hillside settings I can think of no finer dinning experience than what is on offer at Flocons de Sel, a boutique spa hotel on the outskirts of Megève. The charismatic three star Michelin chief Emmanuel Renaut and his English wife Kristine not only manage to combine running the finest restaurant and hotel I have ever experienced but they have also found time to raise a family. I think there must be something in the alpine air that inspires such an enthusiasm for life.
http://www.floconsdesel.com/uk/index.php
FactBox
Tourist boards: www.rhonealpes-tourisme.com <http://www.rhonealpes-tourisme.com> www.savoie-mont-blanc.com <http://www.savoie-mont-blanc.com>
Pays du Mont Blanc:
http://www.megeve.com
Sharing its Alpine borders with Switzerland and Italy, the Savoie-Mont Blanc area of the Rhône-Alpes region of France sounds a bit of a mouthful but this part of France has long been a favourite winter sporting destination for the discerning skier. Upmarket resorts such as Chamonix and Megève have welcomed sophisticated Parisian’s and wealthy Brits for years with the promise of fine skiing, refined gastronomic specialities set against the iconic natural feature of the Alps. Come Spring, when the temperature rises and the alpine pasture, rich with herbs and wild flowers replaces the melting snow, a different crowd of savvy traveller takes to the slopes to enjoy lower season prices as mountain resorts transform into a different kind of playground. Skis and snowboards are packed away as hikers and cyclists take advantage of the winter ski lifts that allow easy access to the summit trails where the air is fresh and the views amazing.
We started our summer tour with a two-hour drive from Geneva airport to the sparsely populated Beaufotain mountain range where the sound of cowbells echoed through the valley. Tucked away between Albertville and Mont-Blanc, this area is without doubt one of the most beautiful and peaceful corners of the whole of France. The region is renowned for its summer pasture, known as alpages, where herds of Tarentaise and Abondance cows graze happily in meadows some 2,500m above sea level. The local herdsmen, who also live up in the alpages, leave nothing to chance and use mobile milking parlours to ensure a steady stream of the rich milk is collected daily for the production of the locally manufactured Beaufort cheese. Food lovers rave about this nutty, Gruyere-style cheese, which has been called ‘The Prince of Gruyeres’ and was awarded the converted seal of Appellation d’Origine in recognition of its quality and originality.
Naturally, we had to sample this delicacy so we headed to the dairy co-operative of Beaufortain where visitors can view the complex cheese making process up close. I wanted to see the cellars where the rounds of cheese are salted and turned by hand to produce their distinctive flavour but be warned, the pungent aroma is not for the squeamish. The co-operative is situated in the pretty village of Beaufort, which is perfect for a stroll around thanks to its quant river bridges, street cafes and a C18th Baroque church. With the weather set fair we decided to treat ourselves to an alfresco lunch in the wonderful garden setting at the nearby Restaurant la Roche where we dined simply on the local cheese, charcuteries and Savoie wines. I just love these type of occasions where everything falls into place to create a special holiday moment that seems to epitomise all that I love about the French way of life – warm sunshine, fine wine, great food and good company in a gorgeous setting.
For more information. Log onto: http://www.lebeaufortain.com http://www.areches-beaufort.com/
I could have happily stayed put in that garden for the rest of the afternoon but the surrounding area is just so inviting that we had to press on and continue our tour. We hiked around the picturesque Roseland Dam and reservoir before checking into the cosy family hotel, Le Christiania in Arêches where we watched a spectacular sunset.
Hotel Christiania ** http://hotel-areches.com/Hotel_Christiania/Le_Christiania.html Tel. +33 4 79 38 10 58
By morning, the breakfast bar was full with an assortment of lycra wearing cyclists who were in the process of refuelling their bodies before the start of strenuous day in the saddle. Luckily, the general public have never had to endure the sight of yours truly wearing any figure hugging attire but I’ve always been partial to a spot of cycling, particularly if it’s downhill. At the purpose built ski resort of Les Saisies I found myself with mountain bike and guide as we waited for a chairlift to transport us to the top of the world. I felt slightly apprehensive at the thought of this, which wasn’t helped when one of our cycling colleagues went crashing to ground within minutes of starting. Luckily, no serious damage was sustained and we were soon hitting our stride along the plateau trail of woodland and meadows. It was fantastic and the views of Mont Blanc and the alpine chain were glorious.
Mountain Bike rental shop Piccard Sport
Tel: 00+33 4 79 38 90 43
http://www.piccardsports.com Prices: ½ day: 39€ (mountain bike special for downhill), 15€ (normal mountain bike) Day: 49€ (mountain bike special for downhill), 19€ (normal mountain bike) Mountain Bike instructor: 65€ per day - 35€ half day
At the time, I couldn’t have imagined a more breathtaking way to see Mont Blanc but that opinion was about to change when we embarked upon a 30-minute scenic flight onboard a compact Musketeer plane. We took off from Megève mountain airport with cameras at the ready as we soared above the low cloud and along the Chamonix valley towards the almost mythical snow-capped summits surrounding the Mont Blanc. The close-up views from the panoramic window were just stunning as we swooped and banked over glaciers and rocky outposts that only the most hardened mountain climber would have ever seen. It’s an experience I will never forget but it’s not for the faint hearted as the turbulence, although exhilarating can upset the stomach.
Flight above the Mont Blanc: Aerocime
http://www.aerocime.com
Tel: 00+33 4 50 21 03 21
Safely back on terra firma, we headed to the ski resort of Megève where we had arranged to meet relaxation therapist Marie Le Ray. With the adrenalin still pumping through our veins this seemed the perfect opportunity to discover Marie’s secret for dealing with modern day stress that involves a series of breathing and meditation techniques known as sophrology. Apparently it’s all the rage in France and Marie was soon leading our group on a sophrological walk in the surrounding countryside. I have to admit that standing in field breathing deeply, with my eyes closed to discover my inner calm didn’t quite do it for me although I am a bit of a philistine when it comes to such matters.
Marie can be booked via the Bureau des Guides
Tel: 00+33 4 50 21 55 11
http://www.guides-megeve.com
Or
http://sophrorando.com/default.aspx
For relaxation, I much prefer to swim in an outdoor pool and the ecological lake in nearby Combloux takes some beating. For a start, no chemicals are used - the water is filtered naturally using nothing but reed beds and plants that grow in the margins. The area is beautifully landscaped and just blends in so well with the surrounding countryside in a location that includes a fabulous view of Mont Blanc. I thoroughly recommend it.
http://www.combloux.com
Finally, if you ever want to celebrate a very special occasion with the meal of your life in the most perfect of hillside settings I can think of no finer dinning experience than what is on offer at Flocons de Sel, a boutique spa hotel on the outskirts of Megève. The charismatic three star Michelin chief Emmanuel Renaut and his English wife Kristine not only manage to combine running the finest restaurant and hotel I have ever experienced but they have also found time to raise a family. I think there must be something in the alpine air that inspires such an enthusiasm for life.
http://www.floconsdesel.com/uk/index.php
FactBox
Tourist boards: www.rhonealpes-tourisme.com <http://www.rhonealpes-tourisme.com> www.savoie-mont-blanc.com <http://www.savoie-mont-blanc.com>
Pays du Mont Blanc:
http://www.megeve.com
